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Bail your board: If you are in the impact zone jump off your board into the water. The impact zone is where the top of the wave meet the trough.
Avoid the “Washing Machine” (Turbulent s): Turbulent s are full of air, and it can be very hard to swim in. If you try to go to the surface when you are in the turbulent s, the turbulents just going to push you under some more.
Don’t Struggle: Fighting a very big wave will make you tired very fast, and will improve your risk of drowning.
Dive: Swim as deep as you can. Try to dive between twenty and twenty-five feet
Allow the first wave to pass over you: When you are under the water you will see or hear the the waves crash. Just wait until that wave crash.
Locate the board’s leash: If you are confused and you don’t know which way is up just grab your ankle and follow your leash. The leash will lead you to your surfboard which is floating on the surface of the water.
Swim Towards the surface: When you start to reach the top of the water put your hands above your head so you want hit your head on your surfboard, Jet Ski, or any other wipe-out surfers.
Wait out the set of waves by diving underneath them: Waves come in sets of three or five depending on the surf conditions. Count the waves as they break so you will know when the water is calm. Swim as deep as you can then curl up like a ball as the waves crash over you. Try to come up for air as quickly as you can. But make sure its between each wave.
Paddle to calmer water: When the set has passed, swim to the top of the water get on your surfboard and paddle as quick as you can further out to to sea, beyond the impact zone. Take the Blue Water “the calm water” back to the shore.
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I like the pictures you used, but I would like to see more personal input on your book blogs and less summary.
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